Master jeweler Sabine Roemer’s one-of-a-kind “Raindrops” earrings reinterpret the fluid dance of … [+]
Glittering and glowing with high grade gemstones, unparalleled artisanship and 21st century chic, the one-of-a-kind creations by German-born; London-based Sabine Roemer define new standards in high luxury jewelry. While her pieces have sold at such exclusive retailers as Harrods and at leading auction houses like Christie’s, Roemer has also collaborated with couture fashion designers such as London-based Tamara Ralph of Ralph and Russo to create fine jewelry, including a gold-plated, custom-fitted jewelry corset which Angelina Jolie wore on the red carpet to promote the 2014 film Maleficent. Roemer’s latest high jewelry collection, entitled ‘Cornerstones,’ consists of eight precious; one-of-a-kind pairs of earrings and is launching in March 2021 to coincide with Women’s History month. “As you will see if you visit Sabine’s Instagram gallery @sabineroemer, her jewels are elegant without being showy, contemporary and utterly unique. These are designs that you just don’t see anywhere else,” Ralph explained. “While accomplished jewelry designers are rare, it’s even more rare to be a master goldsmith, as well,” Ralph continued. “You see Sabine’s pieces and you also see the love and creativity and craft that has gone into them. That’s the extra dimension that gives her pieces meaning.”
These pink opal, tourmaline and diamond “Grace” earrings in 18-karat gold by London-based Sabine … [+]
This writer has reported on Roemer’s jewelry since 2015 and recently viewed her ‘Cornerstones’ via FaceTime. The feminine yet strong silhouettes of these earrings and their boldly scaled proportions, richly-hued gemstones, and convertible, day-for-night designs represent a dynamic evolutionary leap for Roemer and her aesthetic. Incorporating materials ranging from coruscating diamonds to luscious pink tourmalines to exquisitely polished 65 million-year-old ammonite fossils, Roemer’s ‘Cornerstones’ embody a sophisticated use of materials and heroic originality that’s quite rare in jewels of this design caliber, material quality, master artisanship and price point. While ‘Cornerstones’ are immediately recognizable as luxury creations, their unique style and substance imbues them with far more design value and artisanal integrity than jewels produced in multiples by globally branded “luxury” jewelry companies.
Centered with emerald-cut prehnite, these one-of-a-kind, 18-karat yellow gold convertible “Dream … [+]
Transcending trends, these pieces exude glam visual vibes that are romantic and dignified by their pure design integrity. For example, Roemer’s spring-like, sculptural “Dream Catcher Tree” earrings memorialize Roemer’s sunlit experiences in Los Angeles as a young jeweler in that city where she enjoyed a once-upon-a-time romance. Centered with emerald-cut prehnite and surmounted with delicately carved green agate leaves that are detachable for a more casual look, these earrings flash with the refreshing green light of brilliant-cut peridot, which is further enhanced by twinkling diamonds. With sleek nautical silhouettes reminiscent of chic sailboats, Roemer’s aquamarine, London blue topaz and diamond “Sail Away with Me” earrings in 18-karat white gold symbolize serenity. Worn whenever and wherever, these, like all of Roemer’s other jewels, will carry the wearer through their life voyage.
Fluid as fabric and gleaming with white diamonds, these 18-karat white gold “Take a Bow” earrings … [+]
“Above all,” Roemer explained during our virtual visit, “I am a goldsmith, a silversmith, a metalsmith and a gemologist who is devoted to the art of creating one-of-a-kind pieces for people to treasure. I invest significant time, energy and artistry into my high jewelry because I am creating for people and for collectors who share my passion.” When asked to define her mission, she replied, “I believe in creating, wearing and gifting beautiful jewels that are romantic, dignified and handmade with the greatest care and emotion.” The artistic passion and independent spirit that animates Roemer’s jewels are key ingredients in their unique and timeless allure. Having drawn, painted and sculpted throughout her childhood, Roemer decided at age fifteen to become a jeweler. “I took a week-long jewelry-making course with a local jeweler and finished my first ring in one day and created 6 pieces over the course of five days,” Roemer recalls. It just came naturally to me as I absolutely loved working with the metal and the tools and the gems,” she recalled fondly. “I knew I had found my passion and my life’s work.” Surpassing her youthful dream, Roemer became one of the youngest female masters ever to have graduated from Germany’s prestigious Pforzheim Goldsmith and Watchmaking School, which was founded in 1877 as the Grand Ducal School of Craft in Pforzheim, Germany.
Goldsmith Sabine Roemer’s 18-karat rose gold, rose quartz, pink opal and white diamond “Reflection” … [+]
After moving to London after her graduation, Roemer designed and created jewels for various Bond Street Jewelers for a few years. At the age of 30, she launched her first high jewelry collection, ‘Arabian Nights,’ at London’s Harrods in 2020. “This array of 22 unique pieces was partially inspired by the classic ‘1,001 Nights’ collection of Middle Eastern folk tales compiled in Arabic during the Islamic Age that my parents read to me and my brothers when we were children,” Roemer explained. Paying colorful tribute to Middle Eastern desert culture, people and animals, her ‘Arabian Nights’ range was available on an appointment-only basis and included an 18-karat gold camel ring replete with ruby and sapphire-studded bit. In this writer’s opinion, the most extraordinary jewel from the ‘Arabian Nights’ range is the regal black leather falcon hood adorned with 18-karat gold, pavé diamonds and emeralds. Created to honor the 2,000-year-old tradition of hunting for food with birds of prey in the desert, Roemer explained, “For thousands of years, leather hoods have been used in the Middle East, Mongolia, England and Europe to mask raptors,” she noted. These hoods minimize external stimuli, keep the birds calm and help them understand the trainer’s role so that they eventually learn to follow their directions. “Falconry is an ancient tradition embedded in many cultures and it’s still practiced by many in the Middle East,” Roemer added. (A Middle Eastern royal family member purchased Roemer’s falcon hood.)
Alive with the soothing colors and serenity of gentle seas, “Sail Away with Me” earrings in 18-karat … [+]
Exponentially more skilled than the typical bench jeweler, Roemer holds the highest attainable rank in her industry, for she is a master jeweler, goldsmith and designer and an expert in designing, hand building, soldering, wax carving, stone cutting and stone setting. What’s more, she excels at the engraving, restoration and repair of jewels. “Although they create high jewelry and fine jewelry with platinum, gold, and silver,” Roemer explained, “master jewelers often design and create luxurious pieces in metals such as copper or bronze.” For example, Roemer donated her labor and skills to design and create a pair of copper and angel skin coral earrings shaped like orchids that were sold at auction to benefit a charity of which Sweden’s Queen Silvia is a patron.
Roemer’s frequent and significant philanthropic projects also set her apart from other jewelers. “After meeting the late South African statesman Nelson Mandela in 2007,” Roemer recalled, “I realized I could donate my labor plus source donated gem and jewelry materials to create one-of-a-kind luxury jewels and sculptures that Mandela’s foundation could auction for fundraising purposes. Meeting Mandela transformed my life for the better, forever.” Working with other international philanthropists such as Damian Aspinall, the Duke of Cambridge, Prince William and the 2nd Lord Snowdon, David Linley, Roemer has created several unique jewels and art pieces for to raise funds for non-profit organizations via auctions.
Tapered-cut tourmalines and 0.53 carats of diamonds set in 18-karat white gold sparkle forever with … [+]
Master jeweler Sabine Roemer and her daughters are flanked by images of jewels that she designed and … [+]
While Roemer has also worked in the heart of high luxury as a consulting designer for various Paris-based, heritage jewelry houses, she will always remain a private jeweler who works with clients to build jewelry collections of artistic and personal import. “I will always have high jewelry clients,” Roemer ventured, “because there will always be people who love and collect refined, one-of-a-kind jewels. For hundreds of years before mass produced jewelry became the norm,” she continued, “it was common for people to rely on family jewelers who they commissioned to create pieces for engagements, weddings and other milestones. Nowadays, I work with clients who will commission me to create one great piece every year, or perhaps every two or three, depending on their budgets,” she explained. “High jewelry is less driven by cost concerns than it is fueled by passionate, connoisseurship.” As Roemer put it, “The collector’s love of high jewelry bridges the worlds of emotion, applied art, fine art and family heirlooms.” The very same statement can be applied to Roemer’s singular, glittering and significant body of one-of-a-kind jewels.
Spiral-shaped ammonite fossils that are 65 million-years-old anchor Sabine Roemer’s “The Key to the … [+]
(Author’s note: This article is the first of March 2021’s Women’s History month series regarding female jewelers, female jewelry designers and female gem dealers.)
Kyle Roderick covers design-driven, limited edition jewelry and important timepieces. She reports on diamonds and diamond jewelry design for www.realisadiamond.com. She